Hardwood floor refinishing (also known as resurfacing) is an excellent way to revitalize the look of a room without the hassle and expense of replacing the entire flooring. The process involves sanding away the top layer of the existing material using a large sander. This removes the surface finish and any scratches, stains, or imperfections. The newly exposed surface is then stained and sealed with a protective coating of your choice.
Before You Begin
Heavy sanding and refinishing are ideal for solid hardwood floors—those made entirely of maple, oak, or other hardwood species. However, with engineered wood floors, you might be limited to a single sanding, as excessive sanding could penetrate the thin hardwood veneer and expose the core layers.
Not all wood-look floors are suitable for sanding. Laminate flooring, for instance, cannot be sanded at all. On the other hand, bamboo flooring, despite being a grass, can be sanded like hardwood to eliminate surface imperfections.
Safety Considerations
Although technically feasible, sanding floors with a handheld sander is not practical. It’s almost always done with a large upright drum sander—a pricey tool typically rented rather than bought. This machine requires careful handling, so be sure to obtain thorough instructions from the rental store on its safe and effective operation.
When using this tool, prioritize safety by wearing a protective mask, eye protection, and hearing protection. If possible, ensure proper ventilation by opening windows and using fans during the sanding process. Take your time, and select appropriate abrasive grit sanding belts or pads. Avoid tilting or rocking the sander to prevent gouging the floor.
What You’ll Need
Equipment/Tools Needed:
- Pry bar
- Hammer
- Safety gear: eye protection, hearing protection, dust mask/respirator
- Upright drum sander
- Edge sander
- Paint scraper
- Under-radiator sander (optional, for hard-to-reach areas)
- Shop vacuum
- Broom
- Paintbrush and roller
- Brad nailer
Materials Needed:
- Plastic sheeting (for dust protection)
- Painter’s tape
- Clean cloths
- Sanding belts (40 or 60 grit) for the upright sander
- Sanding pads (40 or 60 grit) for the edge sander
- Wood putty (for filling gaps and holes)
- Fine-grit sandpaper (for smoothing after putty)
- Tack cloths (for removing dust before finishing)
- Wood stain (optional, for changing color)
- Topcoat finish (sealer, polyurethane, or varnish for protection)
Instructions
How to Refinish Hardwood Floors
Floor Preparation:
To ensure optimal results from sanding, it’s recommended to remove base shoe moldings or even the entire baseboards before starting.
Protect your home from dust by covering doorways and vents with plastic sheeting secured with painter’s tape.
Thoroughly clean the floor by sweeping or vacuuming to remove all dust and debris.
Inspect the floor for protruding nails and hammer them down flush with the surface using a hammer and nail set.
Repair or replace any damaged or missing floorboards before beginning the sanding process.
Sanding the Floor:
Equip the upright drum sander with a 40 or 60-grit sanding belt. Remember to wear your protective gear (eye, hearing, and breathing) before starting. Begin sanding the entire floor, always moving parallel to the wood grain, not across it. Make long, even passes, overlapping each pass by 2 to 4 inches. Get as close to the walls as you can without touching the baseboards with the sander.
Properly starting and stopping the sander is vital. Ensure the drum is lifted before turning on the machine. Lower it onto the floor as you begin moving forward with a long stroke. When reaching the opposite wall, lift the drum again before stopping the sander’s movement. Neglecting this can lead to uneven dips and significant damage to your floor.
Sanding Edges and Corners:
Switch to a hand sander equipped with 40 or 60-grit sandpaper to sand the edges and corners of the room, working your way up to the baseboards. For stubborn finish remnants in corners, a paint scraper might be necessary for thorough removal.
Tip:
For sanding under radiators, consider renting a specialized sander with a flat head designed for tight spaces. Alternatively, you can sand these areas by hand.
Inspecting and Perfecting the Floor:
After power sanding, address any remaining areas with medium-grade sandpaper. This step helps smooth out rough patches and evens out the surface. If you find any gouges, fill them with wood putty. Allow the putty to dry completely (at least 24 hours) before sanding it smooth with fine-grit sandpaper and wiping it clean with a tack cloth.
Floor Dust Removal:
While most power sanders come with vacuum attachments that capture a significant amount of dust, it’s crucial to thoroughly sweep and/or vacuum the room after sanding. This ensures the removal of any remaining dust particles. To complete the cleaning process, use a tack cloth to wipe down the floors and walls, picking up even the finest dust before applying any finish.
Wood Staining (Optional):
If you want to change the color of the wood, now is the time to apply your chosen stain. There are various stains and dyes available, but a convenient option is a rub-in stain applied with clean rags.
Allow the stain to dry completely, usually overnight, before moving on to the final topcoat application.
Applying a Topcoat:
The term “varnish” is often used broadly for any topcoat, but there are various options:
- Sealer: A thin liquid that penetrates wood pores and forms a surface coating. It preserves the wood’s natural look but offers less protection, often needing reapplication every 6-12 months depending on wear.
- Polyurethane: The most common hardwood floor finish. This clear, almost plastic-like coating is applied with a brush and comes in various finishes, from matte to glossy. It creates a durable layer that resists stains and scratches.
- Traditional Varnish: Similar to polyurethane but darkens the wood more noticeably. Its advantage is that it’s thinner, allowing for easier spot repairs if damage occurs.
Regardless of your choice, adhere to the product label’s instructions, especially regarding safety precautions and drying times. Most topcoats require at least two coats, each needing to dry overnight before applying the next.
Tip:
Polyurethane finishes come in both water-based and oil-based varieties. Water-based polyurethane is user-friendly and dries faster, but it might highlight imperfections. Oil-based polyurethane takes longer to dry and has a stronger odor, but its slower drying time results in a smoother, more polished finish.
Reinstalling Moldings:
To complete your project, reinstall the base shoe or other moldings along the walls, concealing the edge of the newly refinished floor. A brad nailer makes it easy to secure these moldings in place.
Tips for Refinishing Hardwood Floors
While removing baseboards is the recommended practice when refinishing hardwood floors, you can opt to leave them in place and safeguard them from the sander using foam padding secured with masking tape.
Between sanding stages with different grit levels, meticulously sweep and vacuum the flooring to eliminate dust and debris.
Depending on the location of the refinishing project, you may be able to stay in your home during the process. If the work involves the main living areas, it might be wise to avoid the fumes by staying elsewhere for a couple of days after completion.
As you return furniture to the refinished floor, place felt pads under the legs to prevent scratching the newly restored surface.
When to Call a Professional
While a DIY approach might seem cost-effective, renting the necessary equipment like a walk-behind sander and hand tools can cost around $200 per day. Additionally, mistakes during the process can easily cause irreparable damage to the wood, leading to costly floor replacement. Many homeowners have learned this lesson the hard way, starting with the goal of saving money only to end up paying more to fix their errors.
Refinishing hardwood floors is a demanding task. If you’re unsure of your abilities, it’s wiser to entrust the job to professional floor refinishers. Their expertise comes at a cost, typically ranging from $3 to $8 per square foot, depending on the project size. This professional service covers sanding and the application of two or more coats of finish, usually requiring three to five days, including cleanup.
FAQ
Lifespan of Refinished Hardwood Floors:
A well-maintained refinished wood floor can last up to 10 years. However, without proper care, you might find yourself needing to refinish solid hardwood floors after approximately seven years.
When Refinishing Isn’t an Option:
Refinishing won’t be effective if your floor has extensive damage like warping, major chips, termite infestation, or severe staining, particularly if these issues affect nearly half the floor. In such cases, replacing the boards is the best course of action. Additionally, if your hardwood floor has already been refinished around 10 times, further refinishing is not recommended.
Alternative to Refinishing:
Before resorting to refinishing, consider testing your floor with a few drops of water. If the water beads up, your floor might only need cleaning and polishing. But if the water soaks in, refinishing could be necessary.
Cost-Effective Alternatives:
There are budget-friendly ways to refresh your hardwood floors without full-scale refinishing. You can fix minor scratches, buff the floor with hardwood floor polish and mop, or even rent a floor polishing machine from a home improvement store.
Refinishing Without Sanding:
Yes, it’s possible to revitalize hardwood floors without sanding. Buffing the floor with a buffer and applying a glossy finish can be sufficient if your floors are in decent condition but need a touch-up.im
